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It’s Saturday morning and the Old Man is in attendance, playing for tips from the people whose buses stop by. It seems like every bus that passes through Liloan stops at Titays!

Here is a video of the Old Man performing that plaintive melody, “Besa Me Mucho”

So while you’re listening to his song why don’t you have a look around? Enjoy a cup of coffee, tea or a soft drink. Try an Empanada or an Ensaymada, perhaps buy some tasty Rosquillos for the trip home. It’s a beautiful day in Liloan and Titays is a cool comfortable place to spend the morning.

One wall is dedicated to the history of Titays.

That’s Lola Titay on the left

You have to admire her. From a humble beginning she built a business known throughout the world. And has given employment to many residents of her hometown.

The main gate

Construction was started, utilizing Cebuano labor, by Spanish conquistador Miguel Lopez de Legazpi . The Fort was named for his flagship the San Pedro. Originally built of wood and mud, the fortification was rebuilt and strengthened using stone until in 1738 was finally pronounced finished.

Inside gate

The Fort is triangular and has a total area of 2,025 square meters, with walls that are 20 feet high and eight feet thick, and three towers that rise 30 feet from the ground. It garrisoned over 200 men.

Shaded walk on the wall

There is an interesting museum and the guard on duty was very knowledgeable, taking great pride in explaining the displays and ancient artifacts. Unfortunately, picture taking wasn’t allowed in the museum.

Down the Barrel, glimpse the sea

Guard Shack

Pleasant covered walk

A garden is located in the courtyard, with two covered walks. On a hot day this is the place to be.

small souvenir stand

If you are lucky you will be serenaded by Ben the blind guitarist. For a small donation he will play and sing beautiful Filipino and western songs for you.

The day I visited Ben performed Elton Johns “Skyline Pigeon” in duet with a little girl (who I assumed was his granddaughter since she said her name was “Little Ben”). What she lacks in tonal quality she more than makes up in enthusiasm. A young Diva in the making?

Entry fee is a modest 10 pesos which also included a small folding tourist map of Cebu, a bargain!

Lyndon, Juel, Arnold, Henri, Kay (L-R)

all pics from 40 the Band website.

I lucked out one night at the Outpost when I was introduced to the female singer of the group, Kay Tradio, and her husband Henri who also plays guitar in the band. They called Arnold over and we all started rappin ’bout which guitar is best (Fender Strat), the Blues and it’s introduction to Cebu, Philippines.

Kay said when they first started playing the blues in Cebu (40 was previously a classic rock and originals band) there were many lonesome gigs where people wouldn’t come or didn’t understand the genre and walked out. But they stuck with it, honing their licks, paying their dues and have persevered. Their gigs at the Outpost and other venues around town are now usually packed with blues aficionados. Hey, we all know, the blues is alright!

They asked if I wanted to come watch them play and maybe sit in at an upcoming gig at Formo. Of course I agreed.

Formo is a modern nightspot located in Banilad Town Center which is a trendy place to meet and mingle among the young professionals in Cebu. When there isn’t a band they have a DJ providing the beats. Owned by John Paul Chiongbian, the son of Nenita who is a friend of Fe’s sister Lisa. ( Cebu is a small island, sometimes it seems everyone knows everyone else!) Nenita visited us in Indianapolis many years ago and we had a great time checking out all the discos around town. (Like I said, it was a long time ago and Discos were the THANG ).

Advertised as starting at 10:30 the band didn’t play their first note until 11. That’s Filipino time folks, and besides, Cebu doesn’t start jumpin till late at night.

The current lineup of 40 the Band features three guitars, bass and drums, with Kay handling the vocals to good effect. These guys have studied and perfected their blues vocabulary. It seemed a little surreal, watching and listening to these Filipino cats, but at the same time it was comforting, like a night at my old home place.

The front line consists of Arnold Ang, Henri Tradio, and local guitar phenom, Randy Pages. Randy is a close friend of my nephew, Ian, and plays in two bands. One, an atmospheric avant garde group and also 40. He studied guitar in the US and has brought his hot licks back to Cebu.

Lyndon, the bass player knows where “home” is, and I like that. His playing is complementary, soulful and he doesn’t overdo it. He knows a big fat note is much better than a bunch of skinny ones.

The drummer is Juel Zuleta, and he knows how to play the blues. He blocks the song along with the 12 bar sequence and hits accents in the right places. With advanced technique and metronome tight, he lays down the groove and is easy to follow.

Arnold Ang

Henri Tradio

Randy Pages

Payin their dues, playin the Blues in Cebu, Philippines

Kay has a big funky sound for a little girl. She can howl, growl and belts out the blues in full voice. I really enjoyed listening to her no holds barred rendition of “The Sky is Crying”, by Stevie Ray Vaughan.

Arnold is leader but allows everyone their contribution within the framework of the song. The three guitarists have vastly different styles with Arnold taking a studied lyrical approach, somewhat like Clapton, Randy supplying ethereal textures and rhythms, and Henri giving stinging “balls to the walls” performances reminiscent of Albert Collins. I dug listening and watching their interplay.

I was called up to play almost a full set with the band. We covered “Roadhouse” by the Doors, “Pride and Joy”, by SRV, even Claptons “Cocaine” and lots of others. The Band allowed me a try at singing “Walking Blues” by the Butterfield Blues Band (Originally written by Robert Johnson) even though they had never heard the song!

Arnold called for extended jams and breaks which added interest and made the playing dynamic. These guys know how to put the “stank” on it!

All too soon the evening came to a close and I surrendered the bass back to Lyndon, thanking him profusely for the use of his rig. They ended with an extended instrumental version of “Little Wing” as recorded by SRV.

I’m glad I got to meet and jam with Arnold and crew. They are busy spreading the gospel and keeping Blues alive in Cebu City, Philippines.

May they play long, hard and prosper.

Most of the resorts and dive facilities are located on “Bounty Beach” along the southern end of the island. We are to spend the evening at Bantigue Cove, a new resort located at the extreme NE corner of the island, far away from the noise, hustle and bustle.

View from our cottage

The trip north, is uneventful and quick despite the driver becoming confused at a couple of crossroads. Road signs in the Philippines? A non-event. At a major intersection it is best to roll down the window and ask. A head nod, quick hand gesture or pursed lips usually point the way. A short time from Cebu City and we roll into Maya, the end of the road and the ferryport to Malapascua Island.

Maya LOOKS like an endo town, dry, dusty and slightly unkempt. The sari sari store is thin on supplies. A stringy haired Frenchman in a flowered shirt sits outside, chair leaning against the wall. He smokes a dark colored cigarette and stares across the sea towards Malapascua.

We locate the boat sent by Gilbert Woolbright, owner of Bantigue Cove. A shaky all aboard, climbing over large riprap. Slipping could mean a sprained ankle, or worse. Soon we are on the water heading for the north side of the island. A 40 minute ride through calm blue seas. We round a point and see Bantigue. Two boats are anchored offshore, scuba divers and snorkelers exploring the reef. We are greeted by friendly staff who take our bags, showing us to our rooms and cottages.

Coming into Bantigue Cove

The first thing noticed is the quiet. No loud karaoke, radios or motorbikes. Just sounds of wind and waves. The quiet side of Malapascua, oh yeah…

Fe and I are assigned a detached aircon cottage on the small ridge overlooking the beach. Power is by generator and available from 6pm to 6am only. We don’t mind. Sea breezes keep the cool and we enjoy a full 360 view, sunrise, sunset, beach, ocean and mountain behind. THIS is living.

The Pavilion

In a short time we are called to the open air, thatched roof Pavilion for lunch of pancit, fresh grilled fish, pork adobo, crispy pata and rice. The Woolbright family have owned and operated restaurants and hotels in Cebu City for several decades. The offerings at Bantigue reflect their commitment to excellence.

Enjoying the ocean beauty with our meal we breathe in clean fresh onshore breezes. Leyte, Masbate, and other smaller islands lie in the distance, puffy cumulus clouds hang over their landforms. It feels like a scene out of Michener’s ‘South Pacific”. “Wait a minute”, I remind myself, this IS the South Pacific!

Afterward all I want is to take a nap. Fe goes to the cottage but I prefer a snooze on the beach. I find a bamboo recliner in shade and start “chillaxin”.

The sun climbs, and descends westward, the tide comes in, the wind rises, waves build and crash ashore and I sleep, eventually abandoning the recliner for a spot on the sand in the shade of a small palm tree. And the Zen of the beach irons the wrinkles from my soul.

Later I find Fe sitting on the cottage veranda with serenity before her. A fisherman’s village lies to the west. I ask if she’d like to go exploring. “I’m too lazy to go”, declining the invitation. Putting on my walking shoes I start to hike. The tide is high but I see a couple of spots where a trail leads up and over coral outcroppings.

In short time I cross over the coral and find myself on the village beach, covered with colorful banka boats waiting for their owners. Many have small motors but several are paddle and sail propelled. A few large bankas are pulled high on the beach or anchored just offshore.

People in the village are friendly and don’t seem to mind this fat Kano peering around their homes. Respectful of their privacy, I take no pictures of the huts or the villagers. The boats are another matter. I am a canoe builder and interested in construction techniques. The small banka is a variation on the Polynesian “three log canoe”. They are colorfully painted and whimsically named, names like Loloys Dream, Merly, Janie, Juns Steed.

I come upon the remains of a banka stored close by a hut. The skeleton has nice lines and an impressive bowsprit. Perhaps the owner intends to restore it one day. I’d like to think so.

The village has a spirited basketball game in progress, full teams contesting for championship of the court. Filipinos are exuberant b-ball players, with spins, fakes, and behind the back passes and shots. They may not score, but they look spectacular.

Reaching the far end of the island I cross a small isthmus and find a group of young children swimming in the quiet cove. They are friendly, “Hello!, what’s your name?’ “Where you from”?. A woman is swimming slightly farther out, around an anchored boat. She tows a pail in an innertube. Once in a while she surfaces with a small fish to put in the pail. Is she is catching them by hand? I see no line, hook, gig or spear

The sun setting lower I want to watch it with Fe and so return the same way I came. A pretty young girl stands next to a small hut. She wears a flowered sarong and smiles, watching me. I smile and wave and she does likewise. After a couple awkward waves and smiles I walk over and say it’s been a beautiful day, “magandan”, motioning towards the sea. She’s surprised I know the word. “So, you speak Tagalog?” She asks. I explain I know only a few words. We talk in English about her village and the island. Her name is “Janie”. I ask if the boat on the shore is named for her and she laughs, saying it belongs to her uncle, who is painting several wooden boards in the yard, repairing the hut that is the family home.

She is very surprised when I say I am Fil/Am, she and her uncle thought I was Japanese! I laugh and remove my glasses to show my round eyes. :”Do these eyes look Japanese? ” We laugh. “But you don’t look Filipino”. I get that a lot here. In America not “white”, and in the Philippines not Filipino. Guess I’m just screwed on ethnicity…

We talk about the name of the island, Malapascua, which means “Bad Christmas”, referring either to a Spanish shipwreck that occurred in the 1500′s at Christmas or Magellan, landing here looking for fresh water and food and finding none, nameing it after the season. A third prospect is during WWII a Japanese ship hit the reef at Christmas. When it’s crew landed they were all killed by the locals. I ask if she has bad Christmases here. With a giggle she says there are good Christmases and that when she becomes Mayor they will change the name to “Buenapascua”.

She volunteers the locals do not use “Malapascua”, preferring to call the island its original name, “Logon”. She said Logon comes from “Ilogon” which means “take” and in the past many people have come to take the island. (Like the plethora of resorts along Bounty Beach?) But the locals have always remained.

I say “mabuhay” and continue walking back, taking more pictures of the boats. Crews are preparing to motor the large bankas out. The wind and waves have built, the boats rocking. The crews seem young, yet are old pros getting on the boats, timing the waves to run out when the sand is clear and the bow is low. They grab and climb aboard, to start the engine, prepare the nets, get everything ready for a night at sea…

Back at Bantigue Fe and I walk to the dive shack to view the sunset. It doesn’t disappoint, multiple red, orange and purple hues illuminating a cloud streaked sky. Fishermen in their solo canoes head to the offshore reef.

Idyllic, pristine, beautiful.

Coming from the Midwest USA I have never seen so much bamboo in one place before. I have a good friend who occasionally brings in a small quantity from Arkansas for me, but it isn’t this thick walled tropical species and is prone to split as soon as it dries out. I wish I had some of the good Philippine stuff back home for my garden and sail canoe projects.

A small barangay extends down an alley from Gorordo. There are stacks of bamboo on one side of the street, some over 20 feet high. It’s a bamboo world back there. The workers live in bamboo huts, eat at bamboo tables, sleep on bamboo beds and their kids play in bamboo cribs. Even their chickens are kept in bamboo cages with bamboo feeders and water cups!

Painted bamboo? Oh NO!

All work is done by hand with knives, saws, chisels and wooden mallets. It is interesting to watch them lay out the rungs for a ladder and cut the holes with a chisel. A few whacks and the rung is ready for insertion. Probably not an OSHA approved ladder though.

Proud Mama and Baby

I asked a fellow standing next to a Sala set of two chairs, sofa and table how much they cost. As he started to size me up I stepped closer and said, “No Kano price, Cebuano price!” He screwed his face up and started wiggling around and I thought I was really working the bargain when he said, “Please sir, you’re standing on my toes.” Most people in the Philippines wear flip flops so I think maybe my 200lbs smashing his foot didn’t feel too good. That’s one negotiation technique Fe’s sister Lisa hasn’t thought of !

After I removed my foot from his he said “2800.00 Sir”. Thats PESOS people not US dollars. At current exchange rates around 70 bucks. Seventy dollars for a bamboo sofa, two armchairs, and a coffee table.
They are comfortable just as they are but if you want cushions you have to have them made elsewhere. Maybe there’s a cushion village somewhere…

Ever wonder what’s behind these walls?

We visited Mr John Young. Mr Young was part owner of Williams Lines before they merged with Aboitiz Shipping. He has since sold out and concentrated on other interests.

At one time he was a fighting cock Impresario, selecting, breeding, growing and fighting hundreds of birds. He eventually grew tired of the game and sold off all the birds in one fell swoop for 2 million. All but the best, which he gave to his brother in law and a few close friends.

John has several real estate holdings, including a 50 hectare mango farm in the mountains above Cebu, where he also experiments growing organic vegetables. Much of the produce goes to “Ginza” his Japanese restaurant on Panis Rd in Banilad.

John’s main passion these days is tending his home garden. He is quick to point out he doesn’t have a degree in agriculture, but I will say he has something degrees can’t confer. John has a green thumb.

We were treated to a tour of his home and property situated on a hectare of land in Banilad.

The circular drive is dominated by two large feature palms which are surrounded by bonsai. Pines, palms, banana, even acacia trees have been trimmed by his own hands and trained to his artful eye. Mr Young even makes and paints his own special growing pots!

He admits many of his specimens are world class and might be worth hundreds of thousands IF they were for sale. But his favorite answer is, “They are for my eyes only.”

Bonsai Banana

Bonsai Palm

to be continued…

When I first toured the beach house 20 years ago it had a native thatch roof and dividing walls were made of nipa. Today, after suffering extensive typhoon damage, they have completely remodeled the house, replacing the thatch with fiberglass roofing and installing painted concrete and plaster walls. Though retaining it’s “native” feel, the house is now modern contemporary. The reincarnation was designed by their daughter who is an architect in the US.

First floor Recreation room, open to the sea, illuminated from behind by the setting sun.

Recreation room

With dramatic open truss roof

Lou giving a tour

Two beautiful ladies and a frog

Dinner by the pool

Crispy lechon (roast pig), part of every Filipino celebration!

]]> http://hoz49.wordpress.com/2008/04/16/dinner-party-with-the-aldeguers/feed/ 1 hoz49 http://hoz49.wordpress.com/2008/04/15/monthly-boat-trip-with-living-in-cebu/ http://hoz49.wordpress.com/2008/04/15/monthly-boat-trip-with-living-in-cebu/#comments Wed, 16 Apr 2008 04:52:17 +0000 hoz49 http://hoz49.wordpress.com/?p=127 ]]> For a couple of years I have been posting on a forum named “Living in Cebu”. It is owned by Paul Petrea, an American expat from Georgia. Paul came to Cebu several years ago and fell in love with the Philippines, the lifestyle and it’s beautiful women. He decided to live here full time and provides the forum as a way of helping others who are thinking about visiting or moving to Cebu.

Pandanon Island

Once a month the members who are in country get together for a boat trip. Costs are shared and they have a pitch in picnic. Depending on how many come, it can be a very inexpensive way to go island hopping.

Sunday I finally met some people who have until now only been anonymous screen names. About 25 people, expats from the USA and even one Brit, along with their Filipina girlfriends and wives met on Mactan Island to board a banka boat and set sail for Pandanon Island.

The boat and crew were first rate, helping less steady clients aboard the slightly rocking boat. Once all were ready we backed away and headed east, passing nearby Olango Island and moving out into the Hilutungan Channel.

I have discussed kayak crossing from Mactan to Bohol with my friends Doyet and Buzzy of the Bohol Kayak Club. Although they have not yet done it, it’s on their list. From what I saw the crossing is perfectly doable, jumping from island to island until you reach Bohol. The longest open water would be the Hilutuingan Channel a distance of about 8 kilometers. I saw many native fishermen out in the open water in their outrigger canoes.

In no time we were disembarking on the white sand beaches of Pandanon Island. Our trip organizer, Bob Ward had contracted to have 2 nipa huts for the group and the shade was most welcome! Believe me it gets HOT under the tropical sun.

Lunch in my hut was chicken, both fried and grilled, native pork adobo , rice, (including puso or hanging rice) and Bobs famous potato salad. He also provided a delicious macaroni salad, but the potato really stood out. After eating rice for the past 2 months it was a taste of home. Desert was on me and I brought brownies and 2 different cakes from Leona’s, a well known Cebu bakery.

Locals enjoying the water

We spent several hours lounging in the huts, telling lies and recounting humorous tales of our trips in and around the Philippines. Many went swimming in the emerald green waters surrounding the island. The children in our group spent the entire time wading, splashing and swimming, and from the sound of their laughter they had a good time.

With Mrs Lee, Nila, from Ft Lauderdale via Bukidnon

Several boats docked on the Island

Local kids enjoyed swimming around the outriggers

A small chapel for the Fishermen and their families

Thats Jetafe, Bohol in the distance

(much closer than our paddle to Pamilican Island!)

Looking back toward distant Cebu.

Fisherman’s Village on Pandanon Island

At 2:30 we decided to pack up and head for Hilutungan Island, which has an extensive reef system. On the way over Bob explained it is a nature preserve and that admission for swimmers would be 100 pesos (with a reduced rate for Filipinos) but that those of us who elected to stay on board wouldn’t be charged. Since I hadn’t brought a mask or snorkel I decided not to swim and just chill on the boat.

Hilutungan is another beautiful island. There are even a couple of dive resorts located there. The reef area is roped off and includes mooring buoys for the boats to save additional destruction of the delicate coral. After we tied up six people decided to dive and swim the reef. The wind and current were strong so they kept close to the boat and it’s outriggers. After 20 minutes or so a fellow paddled up in a canoe to collect the permit fees.

It was then we learned the fees had been recently changed to 100 pesos for Filipinos AND Foreigners alike, and that everyone on the boat regardless of whether they were swimming or not would have to pay. This caused much consternation among the group as there was no sign advising the increase and there were many more people on our boat who did not swim. Some thought it was an outright scam, to squeeze more money from foreign tourists.

After motoring over to the “floating office” and much heated discussion in both English and Visayan (including threats by the permit police to call the mayor of Cordova, the nearby town!!!??) Bob offered to pay 600 pesos for the swimmers and leave, promising not to come back. This was reluctantly accepted and our short time at Hilutuingan Reef ended. I hoped the authorities wouldn’t be waiting when we landed back at the dock!

Motoring back to Mactan we passed my in laws beach house in Maribago, which I recognized by a small island offshore with it’s circular grotto where I swam over 20 years ago.

Back at the wharf all seemed calm (no police, no DENR and NO MAYOR) and we all went our separate ways. A large group jumped on a colorful jeepney for a ride to the highway. I joined Mr Lee, his wife and another fellow (screen name Ologist) to share a cab we found waiting at the road. We had some good conversation on the return and I saved 50 pesos over my morning trip.

If I lived in Cebu I would join the group every month they have an island hopping tour. It was a nice day on the water and everyone had a great time.

a bit of whimsy…

and finally the rest of us, a long wall holding the remains of many dead.

A Guard and our Guide Mr Atup, note the pistol. This gentleman actually followed us around the cemetery. He became quite helpful pointing out mausoleums of prominent citizens of Cebu. A past Governor, a shipping magnate, a bus terminal owner.

“In the democracy of the dead all men at last are equal. There is neither rank nor station nor prerogative in the republic of the grave.”
– John James Ingalls

“Death does not concern us, because as long as we exist, death is not here. And when it does come, we no longer exist.”
– Epicurus

” When it comes time to die, be not like those whose hearts are filled with the fear of death, so when their time comes they weep and pray for a little more time to live their lives over again in a different way, Sing your death song, and die like a hero going home.”

Tecumseh